The weekend was quiet, just pottering about and
miscellaneous shopping. By Saturday
evening I had published the blog and at least sorted all the Hamilton
Island/Reef pictures so that when we went to the Goodyear’s for dinner, almost
exclusively cooked by Peter, I was able to take my PC and display the pictures
on their big TV screen. I managed to get
the rest of the pictures published between getting back home & going to
bed. Sunday we made a quick trip to the
market accelerated by Nick’s need to get back and not miss any of the 7 or 8
hours of televised car racing! It was a
1000 Km Australian race followed by a Formula 1 race.
Monday was equally quiet.
Pam and I did the morning walk thing.
They both had things to do in the morning, Nick consulting to a fellow
architect and Pam going to Wynnum to commit to a seriously high end sewing
machine to make her quilting & related handicrafts a lot easier. In the afternoon we did some running around
during which the Brons bought a new camera, essentially for Pam, as her old one
produces every picture looking as though there were water droplets on the lens
and in this day and age “fix” is the poorer choice over “replace”!
Despite living in each other’s pockets for almost a month I find
it amazing how much we still have to talk about to each other, either
one-on-one or as a threesome. Tomorrow,
very early, we depart for Sydney.
Tuesday (October 22nd) started early with a 5:00
AM alarm, followed by rising, completing packing, a light breakfast and then
Peter ran us to Brisbane airport before heading off to work. Aside from a slight delay the flight south
was uneventful, followed by the usual airport routine and then a taxi ride
driven by an Iraqi speaking Arabic into his cell phone almost the whole ride to
downtown Sydney. We checked into the
Meritor Towers serviced apartments, but were far too early to take possession
so we left all our luggage in the lock-up.
It was quite cool, but not unpleasantly cold, and since from
the Meritor to Circular Quay was essentially all downhill we elected to pass on
the shuttle bus and walk, not quite in a straight line. Nick was finding merit in every building but
to me the buildings were merely big and tall or they were true
skyscrapers. At street level were an impressive
number of shops of all sizes and kinds. The
Quay is the main terminal for the harbor ferries so we bought tickets for one
going way across towards the main entrance to the harbor from the Pacific Ocean,
to Watsons Bay just on the inside which is Australia’s oldest fishing village
having been founded in 1788. Pam &
Nick, used to the traditional & slow ferryboats were astonished at how
quickly we got there on one of the newer catamaran ferryboats. Needless to say, despite only having my regular
lens with me for the camera, I took several shots of both the Sydney Harbour
Bridge and the Opera House, although I hope to get some better ones tomorrow or
the day after.
Apparently any Australian worth his salt who has visited
Sydney has to admit to having had Fish & Chips at Doyles, founded in
1885. The original beachside
establishment still is going strong even though the company now also has
several increasingly upscale fish restaurants a hundred yards or so inland. We opted for the beachside “carry out” one,
although it does provide lots of indoor tables and chairs at which to eat if
one wishes. We wished.
Afterwards we got our exercise for the day climbing slowly
up to the cliffs in the company of a great many pesky flies which we had not anticipated. We went upwards and to the right, or south,
until we were high enough to simultaneously see both the North Head and the
South Head which delineate the true Oceanside entrance to Sydney Harbour. We backtracked and Nick peeled off in order
to avoid the risk of overexposure since none of us had hats with us. Pam & I headed up to the South Head, but
were frustrated by the path being closed for major repairs/improvements just
before the top and hence a clear view.
We came back down, and down again to join Nick and in due course to
board the ferry again as soon as one arrived.
Back at Circular Quay we boarded the free shuttle bus that
runs up into town and has a stop less than 200 yards from our building. We checked with the desk to get our keys (and
elevator pass key), retrieve our luggage, and headed up to the 67th
floor! We are in suite 6701 with two
bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen, a large living and dining area and an
amazing view. Although we are blocked by
parts of the building from seeing the Opera House or the Bridge we can see
everything from Finger Wharf in Woolloomooloo Bay out to The Heads and the
Pacific Ocean and all of the city to our east.
The view really is spectacular.
After a cuppa tea and a decent rest period we went down,
walked about 50 yards and headed underground to a huge shopping plaza and Coles
(Pam’s usual supermarket in Wynnum, although this one was a lot bigger and more
crowded). We bought breakfast supplies
for the next few days and easy-fix meals to have tonight, although we will
probably eat out hereafter. I can’t wait
until tomorrow.
Between Mother Nature (me) and forgetting to turn off her
alarm clock from yesterday (Pam) we were up very early by Brisbane time but
almost normal here as New South Wales is on Summer Time and Queensland is
not. At least I got to see the sun
rising up out of the Pacific from our lovely high vantage spot. We have realized we are not quite as high as
it seems since the street-level lobby is the 10th floor, although
what is below we don’t know. But we are
high.
Once again we took the long and healthy walk, mostly going
against the flow, down to Circular Quay.
I am struck by how little obesity one sees in big cities where everybody
has to walk a lot despite buses, trains, subways & ferries. We bought our tickets for the morning “Coffee
Cruise” on the Captain Cook cruise line, and since we had some time to kill did
a bit more walking around The Rocks neighborhood, blessedly preserved from
high-rises. We saw a couple of Capt.
Cook catamarans take off, one going whale-watching and one a step-on/step off
sort of ferry and assumed we were in for the same, but when our ship pulled in
it was a 4-decker, three enclosed and one open.
As it turned out the highest enclosed deck was in fact closed so we
alternated between the inside, where they served the coffee after a while along
with a goodie box of several Aussie cakes & cookies, and out in the
sunshine & breeze up on top. The
2-hour narrated cruise was gentle and all around the entire “harbor” even going
under the Bridge towards the end.
Interestingly, despite its long history and superb protection the actual
Sydney Harbour is no longer used for commercial shipping (which now goes to
Botany Bay) other than cruise ships, some of them seriously large although none
were in port today.
After disembarking we walked all around Circular Quay and
out to the Opera House for an up-close-and-personal look at it, even slipping
into one lobby which was open as there was to be a performance in the afternoon. I had not realized that the entire outer
surface of all those “sails” was tiled, and really glisten in the
sunshine. We then retraced our steps
(plenty of exercise today) all around and back to The Rocks (I suppose somewhat
akin to The Lanes in Brighton) where we found a nice little place to get a pie,
salad & home-made apple juice which we ate in a shady old courtyard behind
the tiny storefront.
We slowly meandered our way back to the head of the terminal
(and edge of “downtown”) where Nick sat in the shade and Pam & I cruised a
large “tourist shop” with fairly decent success. I now feel I don’t have to keep looking for
stuff to bring home and can merely buy whimsically, or not. We then boarded the free shuttle bus, which
since there had obviously been a delay somewhere started full and at each stop
became more and more packed.
Several times on this trip my watch strap has popped out but
so far I have always caught it and been able to fix it right away. This time it popped off as I was trying to
change the hour as we approached Sydney airport so I had to put it in my
pocket. However, it was many hours
before we were in the apartment and I could try & fix it again &
somehow the little “pin” thing had got lost.
Since I can’t live without a watch before coming in to our building we
descended to the subterranean mall on the corner & found the equivalent of
Dollar Tree so I am now the proud owner of an all-plastic (apart from battery
& chip) $20AU wrist watch! Finally
we came in for cups of tea and a bit of a rest after our exertions.
Once we were rested and the sun was beginning to sink we
headed out, again on foot, and made the shorter journey to Darling Harbour and
its attractive approaches before wandering down one side & finding a nice
restaurant with outdoor seating who were still serving “early” specials. We each chose something different for the
main course but all had the banana crème brulet for dessert. All of our meals were delicious. We left just as we were beginning to feel
chilly, now that the sun had well and truly set and meandered our way back, via
a shop or two, to the apartment.
Wednesday, although we didn’t realize it at first, was
another day when we were blessed with good luck, or at least good timing. We moved respectably quickly in the morning,
Pam & I went to a nearby (underground) supermarket to get supplies for a
picnic lunch, and well before 8:30 AM we had rented a car and were on our way
to the Blue Mountains. The Blue
Mountains are so-called for the same reason that the Great Smoky Mountains at
home get their name. The prevalence of
gum trees causes the air to make everything distant become a fuzzy blue shade.
We made good progress (and were glad we were outbound from
Sydney rather than inbound like the commuters) and we arrived at Katoomba &
found a British-style “pay and display” parking lot. Rather like the western US beauty spots we
found the Japanese much like one of the Plagues of Egypt. There were hordes of them, all pushing and
shoving and acting like the rest of the world’s population didn’t exist as they
each took endless pictures of every other one of them while blocking most of
the good viewing spots. We managed to
work around them, but fewer would have been much nicer!
The day, up there, was incredibly windy, so much so that
Nick put his hand in the small of my back in order for me to hold steady while
taking photographs some of the time.
However, while cooler than Sydney it was not by any means cold. We wandered around a bit taking “views” of
the area in general and across the steep valley in particular. We took a trail down a bit for a closer view
of one of the features but I wisely declined to join P & N in their descent
down “steps” (later described by Pam as more like a ladder) which had a warning
sign saying only fit and strong hikers should attempt it. As we subsequently returned up the more
gently sloped trail it was clear that my breathing rate was a lot less labored
than theirs!
After sitting and having some lemonade we then made our way
across the valley and parked at the “Scenic World” attraction. Inside we bought tickets for the complete
circuit. It starts atop one of the
cliffs and first one takes the cable railway (which slopes at 52 degrees &
claims to be the steepest such in the world) sitting on tilted benches in a
nice enclosed string of cars. Then we
could wander, at our own speed, along a well-maintained boardwalk down in the
valley amongst the trees with many good information signs and some re-creations. A very long time ago there was a coal mine
near the bottom and that was the origin of the narrow-gauge railway tracks used
for hauling the coal up in skips.
It was beautifully peaceful down there and very dramatic and
(apart from a large herd going in the opposite direction) delightfully Japanese
free. When we felt we had wandered
sufficiently we turned off to the cable car “station” and in due course were
gently whisked back up to the top. After
wandering through the inevitable gift shop & snack bar area we then took a
very much more dramatic cable car ride, straight across the valley. This time we got the full effect of the
howling winds and it was probably good that there was not enough time for
seasickness by those with that tendency.
We did not disembark but rode back again, this time taking pictures from
the other side mostly of Katoomba Falls, which must be amazing after a rare
rain but were merely pretty in this drought.
We departed in the car and found a nice overlook at which to
park and have our sandwiches and fruit, but all in the car as it was blowing
very nastily indeed outside, raising dust and shifting everything about. So much did it blow, quite obviously bringing
down small, and not-so-small branches that we elected to leave for home as we
had really seen all the major things & views there were to be seen. After we had been on the road for a little
while we started seeing lots of emergency fire marshal vehicles and soon
afterwards fire engines some passing us from behind and many more on the other side
of the road heading up. We began to see
distant (and not so distant) smoke & suspected something was seriously
wrong.
We continued smoothly to Sydney, and right on through,
heading for the famous Bondi Beach resort/town and, of course, beach and
surfing breakers as the bay inside which it sits faces directly on to the
Pacific. We parked for a few minutes
(pay & display again) bought ourselves a cup of ice cream each and took in
the view. I then headed up the hill to
one side in order to get pictures of the whole thing without too much wasted
foreground. Unfortunately we did not get
close enough to the beach itself in order to admire the sun-bronzed surfer
dudes and their equally sun-bronzed bikini-clad admirers!
We headed back into town, and with some difficulty
eventually managed to find where, six floors underground, to park the rental
and then took an elevator up to ground level to turn in the key before the
really unpleasant guy working the counter shut up shop for the night. A short walk, a 57 story elevator ride, and
we were back in the flat and able to have a cuppa tea. A rather broken up call from Peter Goodyear while
we at Bondi Beach alerted us to turn on the TV and learn that there were no
less than 7 out-of-control wildfires up in the Blue Mountains and some of the
towns were already being evacuated, making us very glad we had opted for an
early return ahead of the excitement and subsequent chaos. Then we began to notice the pall of brown
smoke covering the city and how the beautiful blue of the Harbour waters now
appeared a murky brown color. What a
contrast to yesterday!
Friday morning we initially took very gently but by 10:30 AM
were fully packed and ready to check out, leaving all our bags in the concierge’s
lock-up. We set off on foot and retraced
our steps of two evenings ago, paid our small “concession” entry fee and went
into the Chinese Gardens of Friendship – originally a gift to Sydney from their
Chinese sister city. Much like a
Japanese garden it is an oasis of peace and calm and beauty, of rocks, water
& waterfalls, and plants, even including a display of the Chinese version,
again similar but differing in detail, of Bonsai. We wandered all through it at some length.
Our next move was to walk a few city streets again until we
came to Sydney’s Hyde Park with its War Memorial, pool, fountains, grass and
trees much of which had been visible from the windows of our apartment. After ambling through it we crossed a few
streets and entered the Botanical Gardens although we stayed to one side most
of which was planted in roses – nice. A
little more walking, down a flight of century-old steps, and we were again at
Circular Quay. We bought sandwiches and
drinks and ate them slowly while we people-watched. To end our activities we again took the free
shuttle-bus back to the Meritor World Tower, retrieved our luggage and hopped
into a taxi.
Here our incredible luck with the timing, weather, and
choices we made finally ran out. We had
to kill a good half-hour before we were allowed to check our bags. All was well through security and along the
concourse, with a little shopping (I finally found something to hang on my
Christmas tree) and to the gate. However
after we had waited a while they announced that due to very bad weather
(storms) in Brisbane the Traffic Control had insisted that our departure from
Sydney be delayed an extra hour. The
only upside was that the delay meant Peter would be able to pick us up at the
airport, rather than fighting for a taxi.
In due course we got home, unpacked, Nick shot off for some Coast Guard
duty, Pam & I ate and we resumed our electronic connectivity with the rest
of the world. All in all it was a simply
splendid week.