Thursday, September 29, 2011

Northern Exposure III - 2011 - Day #4

This was a day when the forecasters were all too correct, perhaps even a bit optimistic but wisely we read and acted accordingly, heading, or should I say waddling, out immediately after consuming way too much irresistible breakfast.  Our first stop was Wagner Falls, a small but attractive one (that Marissa has yet to see in sunshine!) along a good and part-boardwalk trail without too many steps.  It made for a nice start to the day's activities.

Staying with the falls theme for a while we next went to Munising Falls and were surprised to find the visitors center actually open.  The charming ranger inside, unusually one actually familiar with the rare Havanese breed, told us this was the last day open for 2011.  After chatting, we headed on up the trail eventually separating so John could take the high road (with its multiplicity of steps) for one view and "the girls" could take the much more gentle low road for a different view (one John had seen many times before).

With unpromising skies we decided to hurry back to Miners Beach to give Zoe a chance to get her exercise for the day, a move with which she had no quarrel at all!  We stayed on the river side and having reached it found Zoe became quite fascinated and spent a good while playing in the area where it merged with the Lake, needless to say getting thoroughly wet all over in the process.  As the sprinkles became more noticeable we headed back to the van and returned to town in ever-increasing rain.

We checked out a few gift shops, most being uninteresting but one showing promise especially in an excellent selection of Dickens Village buildings and accessories.  Two in particular appealed, a beautiful but rather dear church and a Fish & Chips shop, but we couldn't remember if it had been purchased in St. Charles back in the spring.  We went and checked a couple of markets and bought sandwiches & desserts for lunch which we took back to the hotel.  We sat on the patio while the maid finished up the room and watched the serious rain move towards us gradually obscuring our view of the bay, the Pictured Rocks coastline and even the nearby Grand Island.  We retreated inside, ate our lunch and settled down to an afternoon of reading books.

Later an Internet check of Dickens Village stuff reminded us what had been bought earlier, so John dashed out through the raindrops and drove back to the store, splurged on the two buildings plus an item that had caught Marissa's eye.  Come the season this years Dickens Village set up is going to be impressive!  Since the rain never has let up an order has been placed for delivery to the hotel obviating the need for any further excursions.

Although notes will be taken, after this no daily online blogging or posting of pictures will be possible for the next week as tomorrow we head for the Keweenaw and splendid isolation in our cabin.  A few pictures have been taken today and added to the UP set that may be found here.

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Northern Exposure III - 2011 - Day #3

This was a much prettier day and the kind we hoped for and expected when we made our original plans - low sixties temperatures, cooling breezes and abundant sunshine.  We are about a week earlier this year and fall colors are running about a week later than usual so this Munising area is pretty but not the blaze of autumn colors it was last year.

We let the first rush clear the breakfast room before we arrived to find yet another splendid breakfast of all kinds of choices and something new.  Instead of the rather slow waffle-makers they now have a machine that pops out fresh cooked pancakes on demand in less than a minute - what a treat!


The morning was devoted to all things Miners - M. Beach, M. Castle, M Falls!  We headed out of town a little, filled up with gas, made an abortive attempt to get Marissa a more suitable pair of beach footwear, missed a turn, recovered after a long run down a very foggy tree-surrounded road and reached the Lake.  First stop was the beach and a flagrant display of abundant energy by Zoe who seemed like she was on a sugar high.  We became pretty exhausted just plodding along, the soft sand is very hard going.  First we walked east, away from a teacher and two tyro kayakers getting a lesson, then back and on down to the exit of the Miners River.  Zoe finally ran out of gas and went from wind sprints to gentle jogging and exploring, our clue to move on.

We made a quick visit to the Visitors Center, took ritual pictures at the overlook to Miners Castle, and then headed to the start of the Miners falls trail.  Since pets are verboten we left Zoe to recover in the van and abused our own bodies up and down small hills and finally down a lot of steps to the Miners Falls overlook platform.  The falls, coming out of brilliant sunshine down into a narrow gorge, were well worth the trip, especially once we had the platform to ourselves.  Returning we moved somewhat slower.

We headed back to town, bought a superb 2-person Italian sandwich to share and headed to Sand Point to sit overlooking the water and eat.  Following in her mother's footsteps Marissa adopted a gull to feed right up against the van.  We started walking Zoe on the beach, but clearly her heart was no longer in it except for investigating whatever it is dogs find to sniff so we all piled back in the van, returned to the hotel and went into serious energy recovery mode.

Later we took the road in the Marquette direction, found the Rest Area & beach (just one of several) we used last year and made another long gentle walk there in the late afternoon sunshine.  Zoe did a lot of investigating but largely at jogging speed rather than sprinting - she's learning!  Back in Munising we found Muldoon's Pasties still in business (and still excellent) so we bought both a main course and a desert pasty each (apple for me, pumpkin for Marissa) came back to the hotel and settled in for the duration.  We did take some pictures today, a selection of which may be found on Flickr by going here.

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Northern Exposure III - 2011 - Day #2

The weather was the dominant feature of this day also, but in weird ways.  We didn't rush, but after a truly excellent breakfast to set us up for a good while we headed out in good time - right into the fog!  Gradually the microscopic suspended moisture droplets morphed into real drizzle and then downright rain.  About halfway across the U.P. as we headed north we noticed that significant color was appearing amongst the conifer's green.  We passed through a soggy Paradise and then things became weird.  In the last half mile to Whitefish Point the rain ceased.

We elected to do the "beach thing" first in just very mild damp and this was where Zoe's vacation truly began!  Apart from a pair of birdwatchers in the far distance we had acres and acres of beach entirely to ourselves so we could release her to rush about hither and yon - and boy, did she ever!  We took a few pictures and Marissa took a video of Zoe which is in her Flickr and her blog.  Eventually we returned to the complex and after a quick look around put the exhausted Zoe in the van and headed for the coffee shop and the gift shop - in which latter John made his first significant personal purchase, a hunter green fleece with a fairly discrete little Whitefish Point Lighthouse logo.

We then started back towards Paradise and within 500 yards were back into the rain again. We stopped at a large and excellent craft and quilting store (an oddity in so small a town), spent some time but did not buy.  Then we headed west.  In the light of the unrelenting rain we elected to take a pass on the Falls, after all we had done both Upper & Lower in each of the last two years.  A good and wet while later we again pulled into a shore-side area, the town of Grand Marais and lo and behold, as we did so all precipitation stopped!  We did a mini-tour in the van, found a restaurant/bar that made really, really excellent paninis and got our lunch "to go" so we could park beside the water and eat.

Next move was to find a beach access and yet again we had the undisturbed space to let a delighted Zoe free.  We did notice however, that the earlier warp speed was down closer to half-warp speed!  With inadequate footwear Marissa made for a nearby set of steps and John & Zoe hustled as light rain began again back to van & over to get Marissa.  We continued west on the newly paved (and now both pretty and excellent) county road 58 until we got to the Au Sable Falls parking area, during another lull in the rain.  The sign said 300 yards, but neglected to mention that it was 200 horizontal and 100 vertical, virtually all in steps.  The falls are spectacular but just as we arrived at the bottom (without hats and coats) it started to rain again, so we took some hurried pictures and began the heart-straining ascent back to the van.

We decided to abandon sightseeing for the day and headed, through constant heavy rain, along the 50-odd miles to Munising.  As we passed the "All things Miners" turn-off (about 10 miles from town) the rain abruptly stopped and by the time we reached the town the roads were bone dry! We checked in to our usual motel and were able to unload and organize ourselves in brightness, and by the time we were firmly settled in we could actually see some patches of blue sky and sunshine from our room's patio overlooking the Lake.

I have heard of "lake-effect snow" for years, but this was my first experience of "lake effect rain suspension"!!  Somewhat to our surprise we racked up a solid 234 miles today and already have 782 for the first two days.  Some pictures have been posted to Flickr and added to the UP2011 set which may be found here.

Monday, September 26, 2011

Northern Exposure III - 2011 - Day #1

The two words for today have to be "miles" and "rain"!

We pulled out of the driveway at 7:20 AM under gray skies but no rain and with a promising brightness soon to be visible to our north. Getting coffee and breakfast burritos at Taylorsville we turned north and just hammered away. Despite rush hour traffic we made good time and crossed the Michigan border before making our first stop. Marissa took over the driving and we continued racing north, although by now through intermittent mist and occasional rain.

However, we reached Uncle John's Cider Mill complex about 12:30 during a dry period. We walked around a little, doing the necessary, took turns in the gift shop, returned Zoe to the car and headed into the real store to pick up Honeycrisp apples, fresh brewed cider, cheese curds and assorted delicious cookies. Marissa returned to the van with the stuff while John ordered home-made tomato soup & grilled cheese on apple bread - odd but delicious! Since it started pouring with serious rain she returned with a golf umbrella for the lunch run back to the van. We headed out though more intermittent precipitation but a low gas reading coincided with a sleepy period for Marissa so we stopped, filled up, and changed drivers again.

From then on it was just miles, pretty miles, but miles, seriously degraded by ever more continuous and heavy rain. For the first time in all our crossings we traversed Big Mac in wind and pouring rain, which didn't do much for views or photo-ops! Once across we reached our hotel, in the rain, in about one minute. We have the first room closest to the doggie exit. Within a half hour the rain ceased, for good as it happened. John and Zoe went exploring on foot for a while. A little later we all got in the van, went to Pere Marquette National Memorial Park (where over the years the trees have grown largely obscuring the one-time excellent view of the bridge). We had a nice walk there and then ran down the hill to almost water level for another view and a little exploration. Having found Susie's Pasties closed (for the season?) we headed down into the old town of St. Ignace for a little tour and on our way back stopped at what was virtually an old-time diner to get two pastie dinners to go, which we thoroughly enjoyed back in the room. We have enjoyed the hot-tub/jacuzzi but found the main pool a little two chilly for us. We have both posted some pictures on Flickr and Marissa has done a pictorial blog as well. Finally parked for the night the van odometer shows an even 547 miles. The JFP Flickr pictures may be found at here

Northern Exposure III - 2011 - Preamble

Similarly to last year the exact timing was dictated by the American Cancer Society's Relay For Life Midwest Division Annual Conference. However the difference was that it was to be held in Fort Wayne, Indiana, which meant Marissa could attend while leaving John & Zoe in Columbus. The plan was for her to join the van-load of attendees from Evansville and around as they passed through Edinburgh/Taylorsville heading north on I-65 on the Thursday, attend the conference and be dropped off at the same place on Saturday evening. Sunday would be dedicated to final preparations - shopping, packing, and packing up the van ready for an early start on the Monday. This year we recognized differences in lifestyle and planned accordingly. Maria had always preferred to travel with lavish amounts of food and drink iced down in multiple coolers as well as boxes and baskets and rarely straying from the van in which we picnicked. With Zoe (and our) bladder limitations we found we frequently strayed from the van and bought such meals as we needed where and when we needed them - which resulted in a lot of wasteful discarding of previously prepared food. This year, aside from an assortment of room temperature snacks and small emergency amounts of room temperature drinks we will haul no food substituting extra amounts of cash. An empty cooler will accompany us so that suitable cool & dairy supplies can be transported safely the final few miles on the day we move into the cabin we will occupy for a week. All preparations went smoothly and by the middle of Sunday everything not needed overnight was packed in the van, despite intermittent rain all day, requiring a lot of vehicle moving to have the van backwards in the center of the garage. After a relaxing afternoon Michelle, Don & Ziggy came over for a puppy play-date and general socialization. They went and got some delicious Indian food to treat us all and even later we all went out to be treated to ice cream. Sometime after they eventually left a big thunderstormy weather system started to pass over and lasted for a good part of the night.